The studio journal

Notes from the desk.

Occasional entries on process, technique, and the reasons behind the work — written between clients.

Entry 001On nail health

Do your nails need to breathe? (No — and here's why.)

If you've ever taken a break from gel because you heard your nails needed to "breathe," I have good news and slightly annoying news. The good news: you don't need that break. The annoying news: you probably went bare for two weeks for nothing.

Here's the thing. Your nail plate is not a living, breathing organ. It's made of keratin — the same protein as your hair — and it's already dead by the time you can see it. Dead tissue doesn't respire. Everything your nail actually needs arrives from underneath, through the nail bed and the blood supply feeding it. Nothing your nail requires comes in through the top surface, which means covering that surface with gel doesn't suffocate anything.

So where did the myth come from? Mostly from a real observation with the wrong explanation. People take off a set that's been on too long, or one that was removed by force, and the nail underneath looks thin, chalky, and unhappy. That looks like damage from suffocation. It isn't. It's damage from improper removal, from over-filing, or from the nail plate being dehydrated after weeks under product.

The fix isn't to go bare. The fix is proper application, proper removal, and hydration afterward — which is a much shorter and less inconvenient list than "stop getting your nails done for a month."

What actually harms your nails:

  • Peeling or picking off product instead of having it removed properly
  • Aggressive filing down to the natural nail
  • Product applied too thick or too close to the cuticle
  • Skipping hydration entirely

What doesn't harm your nails: having something pretty on them.

If your nails have felt rough after past sets, that's worth a conversation, not a hiatus. Book an appointment and let's look at what's actually happening.

Entry 002On the daily routine

Cuticle oil is not optional.

If I could hand every client one thing on their way out the door, it would be a bottle of cuticle oil and a promise that they'd actually use it.

Most people treat cuticle oil like a finishing touch — something that makes your hands smell nice at the end of an appointment. It's doing considerably more than that. Oil keeps the nail plate and the surrounding skin flexible. A flexible nail bends under pressure. A dry, brittle nail snaps. That's the entire difference between a set that lasts three weeks and a set where you're texting me on day nine.

It also matters for how your nails look. Dry cuticles lift, split, and catch. Hydrated ones sit smooth and clean, which makes the whole hand look finished, whether you're wearing an elaborate design or a single sheer color.

How to actually use it:

  • Once a day minimum. Twice is better. Morning and before bed is the easiest habit to keep.
  • A small amount at the base of each nail, then massage it in. Don't just paint it on and let it sit — work it into the skin around the nail and the underside of the free edge.
  • Keep a bottle where you'll see it. Next to your toothbrush, in your car, on your desk. Oil in a drawer is oil you don't use.
  • Reapply after handwashing and dishes. Water and soap strip it right back off.

That's the whole routine. Under a minute a day, and it does more for your nail health than any product I could put on top.

If you're not sure which oil to use or how much, ask me at your next appointment — I'll show you exactly how much to use and where.

Entry 003On the studio

Why I don't do acrylics.

I get asked this a lot, usually by someone who's had acrylics for years and wants to know what they'd be giving up. Fair question. Here's my honest answer.

I went gel-only after nail school, once I'd worked with both and could feel the difference. Three things decided it for me.

Flexibility. Gel moves with your natural nail. Acrylic is rigid, so when your nail flexes and the product doesn't, something has to give — and it's usually the nail underneath. Gel absorbs that stress instead of transferring it.

How it fails. Every set eventually meets a car door. What matters is what happens next. A rigid product tends to take the nail plate with it. Gel is more likely to give without tearing your natural nail apart. It's not that gel never breaks; it's that the break is usually less costly.

The fumes. Acrylic has a smell you can identify from the parking lot, and that vapor is something both you and I are breathing for the length of your appointment — and in my case, all day, every day. Gel doesn't do that. My space is quiet, it doesn't sting your eyes, and neither of us leaves with a headache.

What I use instead: builder gel, poly gel, rubber-based gel, Gel X, and dip. Between those, there's a solution for almost anything acrylic was doing for you — length, strength, structure, and extensions included.

If you're currently in acrylic and thinking about switching, that's a conversation I'm always happy to have. Book a consultation and bring your questions.

Entry 004On the gel category

Builder gel, poly gel, Gel X, or dip? A plain-english guide.

Gel is not one product. It's a category, and the options inside it do genuinely different things. Here's how I think about them when a client sits down.

Builder gel is a thicker gel used to add structure and strength over your natural nail, or to build a modest extension. If your nails are on the weaker side and you want length without going dramatic, this is often where we start. It files beautifully and creates a strong, even apex.

Poly gel sits between a gel and an acrylic in consistency — thick enough to shape and sculpt, but it cures under a lamp rather than air-drying. Good for building longer extensions with a lot of control over the shape.

Rubber-based gel is more flexible than a standard builder, which makes it a good match for nails that bend a lot or clients who are hard on their hands. It has a bit of give, so it's less likely to crack under stress.

Gel X uses a soft gel tip applied to the whole nail and cured in place. It's fast, consistent, and comfortable, with minimal filing on your natural nail. If you want a full set with length and clean shape in less chair time, this is usually the answer.

Dip is powder-based and cured without a lamp. It's durable and great for a shorter, natural-length nail when you want strength more than length.

Which one is right for you depends on three things: how much length you want, how hard you are on your hands, and what your natural nails are like right now. You don't have to know the answer when you book — that's my job. Just tell me what you want your hands to look like and how they need to hold up.

Entry 005On the studio policy

Why I don't fill over another tech's work.

If you're coming to me from another nail tech, here's something to know before you book: I'll remove what you're wearing and start fresh rather than filling over it.

This isn't a judgment on the person who did your nails. It's about what I can actually stand behind.

Every technician builds differently. Different products, different apex placement, different prep, different curing. When I fill over a set I didn't build, I'm applying my product on top of a foundation I didn't create and can't fully assess. If it lifts in two weeks, I genuinely can't tell you why — was it the base underneath, or something I did? Neither of us has a good answer, and you're the one paying for it.

There's also a compatibility question. Not every gel plays nicely with every other gel, and dip over an unknown base can behave unpredictably. Starting clean removes the guesswork.

So here's how it works: if you arrive with existing gel, dip, or acrylic, there's a $20 removal fee, and we take it down properly — no picking, no aggressive filing, no shortcuts that leave your nail plate thinner than it was. Then we build from your natural nail, with my products, in a structure I know will hold.

What you get out of it is a set I can stand behind completely, and a nail underneath that's in the same or better condition than when you walked in.

If you're making the switch, book a full set rather than a fill and mention what you're currently wearing so I can plan the time. I'd love to have you.